New to lure fishing? - the casual lure anglers guide

 The sun is out and the new river season is nearly upon us and so it is time for many an angler to get stuck in to the rivers, but also it is a time when many anglers turn to a spot of piking. I'm going to put up some information that every pike angler new to the sport needs to learn. Some will be helpful, some will be a must and some might tell you to pack in before you start since you are way off the mark. Pike fishing is a part of angling which needs a bit more knowledge, care and experience so that both angler and fish can go home safe. Anyone can catch a pike. Doing it right so that both fish and angler go home to live another day is the crucial part.



The tools

Another pike suffers at the hand of inexperience

The most important thing in pike fishing is correct gear. Without it, then don't even think about going fishing for pike. You need to spend a few quid first and get some decent tools. A pikes mouth is cavernous and a lure can end up elbow deep down the throat of a toothy monster (no exaggeration). Not the easiest of jobs for someone unprepared. If you can't get the hooks back out safely, then you are going to end up with a dead fish and it will happen lots of times up and down the country over the next four or five months and that simply isn't good enough given that today, we have enough information around for every angler to be doing it the right way. Yes we have enough information, but I'm going to put my bit up there so that it helps at least one angler and many, many fish.



You need big tools. No tiny disgorger for pike fishing,  just big tough tools. Get the best you can afford but don't scrimp. Buying a cheaper smaller version now will mean you spend more in later months when you realise you got it totally wrong.

Forceps can come in handy, but they are often not strong enough for larger treble hooks. I do suggest a pair of extra long forceps for smaller lures and trebles and also just in case they may be of use for anything else (there's many a time when you end up in a pickle!). Instead I prefer a set of long nosed pliers, 12 inches at least. They are much stronger and will help get out the bigger hooks. I do also carry a small pair of pliers in my pocket for simple unhooking jobs. Lastly a large set of side cutters are needed for those rare occasions when you can't quite get a hook out. By simply cutting a treble you can free a badly hooked fish and what might be a long complicated job turns in to a simple one. Remember the fish comes first!

I also carry around with me a pair of scissors for cutting my line and also for cutting up any line I find on my travels. (Why do people still leave yards and yards of the stuff on the bank?) You could also bring along a pair of split ring pliers for sorting your lures, though I tend to not bother and sort hooks, split rings and damaged lures at home. Time on the bank is for fishing not faffing!


The fish welfare kit
Of course the tools are a big part of fish welfare, but after that the important things to have are a good sized knotless landing net, 30 inches or more. I see too many people pike fishing with tiny landing nets which are no good at all, you need a big net for a big fish! When you get that giant on the end of the line a large net to scoop up your dream fish is what's needed. When you have the fish in the net compose yourself. Have a breath or two, let the fish have a breath or two and check your surroundings. Lift the net out of the water by scrunching up the net and lifting (do not lift by using the landing net handle as it will snap!). The pike will be safe in the net should it thrash around and won't be dropped from height on to it's head.

How to photo your prize capture

A must for pike (and most other fish) is an unhooking mat. Fish don't do well laid on concrete or stones. When they thrash around they cut up and also any course ground will wipe away the protective slime they have, leaving them vulnerable to disease. There's a massive selection of mats available thanks to carp fishing. Choose one to suit your needs but keep in mind a pike is a long fish, often 30 inches and more if you are lucky. When you have the pike in the net, lift it on to the unhooking mat which should already be wet. This will help protect the fish and not wipe away the slime. A dry mat would remove a massive amount of slime. Once your pike is on the mat then it's time to look out for those hooks and get them out of the way while you can.

Please note - I will not be telling you how to unhook a pike. If you are not confident then may I suggest you go out with someone who is, such as someone from your local PAC region who will be happy to help. Joining the PAC and attending teach in days and events will gain you a wealth of knowledge no blog entry can give you. Having a look at the task first hand and even being shown up close is the only way to start handling pike correctly. Again, your safety and that of the fish is important.

EDIT - I made a video to show how to unhook a pike

Do not use a boga grip for pike (or any other fish). If you are scared to handle a pike then do not fish for them. Here is a picture showing the damage a boga grip can cause to a pike which I am sure you will agree is not good at all.

The tackle
So you've spent a small fortune and not even got a line wet yet. Get over it, fishing costs a fortune. Seriously, please make sure you have the essentials before even digging out your old pike gear. But now we're on to it, here's the guide to rods, reels and what line to use. Not all answer are provided and this is only to try and give you an idea on things and why we make our choices. You will find that many pike anglers have multiple set ups and each person has their own preferences so what I will do is try to explain how each person comes up with his or her own solution.

Budget is key to deciding what tackle you'll have and how many set ups you will have, but nowadays you can pick up a decent rod and reel for £30-50 each. You don't have to spend more than that at all on a rod or reel. Some folk will most certainly spend more but even they will tell you they do it more for their own pleasure than for necessity.

Rod choice - Think about what venues you will be fishing. Think about the sizes of lures you expect to be throwing. Think about if you will just target pike or you might target perch, zander, chub or even trout too. Now you've just confused yourself even more, but don't worry even the serious lure freaks get ourselves in knots thinking about the right set up.

If you go have a look at a few lure rods you'll see that not only do they come in a few lengths they also have a few casting ratings. Rod length is up to you. Often when chucking larger lures a long rod is preferred where as chucking tiny lures in small streams a short rod is required. However those rules are not strict and it is in the end down to personnel preference. Casting weights is important. A small spinner and a large 35cm rubber lure are massively different and you would use two set ups. So if you will be throwing small spinners and small lures then you might be looking at casting weights of 2g-20g (2cm to 5cm approx). Standard sized pike lures might be 15-50g (3cm - 16cm approx) and large lures might be 50g-200g (15cm-35cm approx). That split of lures and brief guide is very basic and only to try to show how you might split lures, and rod set ups though once you get in to it serious you will have a different set up totally to that of your buddy due to how you fish. The idea is to pick a range of lure sizes and weights and get a rod to suit. A 2-12g casting weight rod won't cast a large 35cm bulldawg lure and a heavy 100g plus weighted casting rod won't cast a 2g spinner so have a look and a think before jumping in to buy a lure rod.

Other things to consider with a rod are line size. Kind of similar to the casting weights, a small rod isn't suited to heavy line and a large rod isn't suited to light line. You might also think about what reel you would be using. Most "casual" lure anglers use a standard fixed spool reel and so you would buy a rod to suit this. More serious lure anglers often choose a multiplier rod and reel set up.

For reel choice, again it is a size thing. You want to match a reel to the rod as per size, what line it will be carrying and how much. Retrieve speeds, gear ratios and lots of other complicated things can be considered. However, just try to match by size and you will be on the right track at least.

Once you have a rod and reel sorted then get it loaded up with line. Most lure anglers prefer to use braided line because you get so much more feel than the stretchy mono line. Honestly, you do and you can tell the difference between the lure banging the river bed and a small 4 inch perch nipping away at your lure. Line breaking strain is important. You want to have a bit of strength, especially in summer, so that you can get a pike out quickly rather than having to play it for half an hour on 6lb line. An exhausted pike is a dead pike. But another reason you want to have strong braid is because it will help you get your lure back from those snags. When you go look for some braid you'll often see it priced around £12-£15 for 150 yards. You may turn your nose up and turn to a cheaper mono but it will cost you much more in lost lures. The breaking strain of the braid wants to be a match for your set up. If you have a light rod, small reel and small lures then those lures will have small treble hooks with a thin gauge which can be bent out easier than a 12inch lure with massive treble hooks. Generally, you  are looking at something like 15-20lb braid for a light set up, 30-40lb for a medium and 50-80lb for a heavy set up. Don't think the same way you would when fishing on the pole, fishing for silvers or even bream, tench and chub where you might scale down to catch finicky fish. We're not using 80lb braid to get the pike in, we're doing it to get back our £20 lures. Another thing to think of with your choice of braid breaking strain is casting distance. Lighter will cast better than heavy, but you'll lose lures to snags with light braid. But with that in mind, don't have 10lb braid and a 100g lure as you will watch the lure disappear in to the distance on the first cast. The final decision must be down to you but keep in mind it needs to be a strong line as you also must not be snapped off by a pike as this could/most probably would result in a dead fish.

Wait, don't go fishing just yet. There's one really important thing you need before you are all set to fish. One important thing that many casual anglers often do not use. A wire trace is an absolute must when fishing for pike. A pikes teeth are very, very sharp and can cut straight through even strong line. A wire trace will prevent this, will prevent a dream fish being lost and prevent the dream fish dying later. Pike are not bothered in the slightest about a wire trace so don't let that put you off. You are not carp fishing, where a bait presented with the tinniest man made object visible will never be picked up by a carp. When lure fishing, the pike does not see the trace, it is too busy focussed on the flashing, vibrating, noisy, fast moving, slow moving easy picking you are presenting. Please try to stay clear of some of the cheap £1 wire traces from the tackle shops. They don't last long for a start and also aren't always the best made. There are plenty of on-line tackle dealers who can offer better options. Try here, or try here and for your heavy lure traces try here. You might notice one massive difference in a few of the traces and that is price. The ones at a couple of quid are made from thin wire which will eventually kink. Sometimes after twenty pike sometimes after one. A kinked trace has potential to break at a much weaker rating. The more expensive traces are made from titanium wire and are fantastic. They just don't kink at all and will last you a very long time. so if you can, go for a titanium trace or two or at least save up for them on your next purchase of pike gear if you opt for the cheaper ones to start with. A final note on the traces, match the trace to your line breaking strain. If you have 30lb line and an 80lb trace then you are going to lose an expensive trace (and lure) if you get snagged up. So for a light set up go for a cheaper trace, but match the breaking strain still, at least there or there about. You would opt for the titanium 80lb/100lb traces to go with your 80lb braid to hold on to your £20 lure that weighs 100g. 

Since writing this article I have since found a perfect example of a poor wire trace. Click here to read more.

bottom trace is far too short

Lures.
 
Where do you start? Everyone has their own favourites, everyone has a lure that catches fish. The truth is, in my opinion, that pretty much every lure will catch you a pike if you use it enough, if you use it where pike are and if you use it when a pike wants to eat something. Again, there's a size issue to think about. From tiny lures to huge lumps. You want to choose the lures to suit your set up, matching the size of lures to your casting rated rod. There's absolutely loads of on-line retailers and plenty of lure manufacturers such as Rapala, Salmo, Savage Gear, Daiwa, Abu and even home made lures from various people such as Mark Houghton and Matt Holmes and many more. So go check them out and have a browse and see which lure catches you!

Here is a selection of lures I use, just to try and give you an idea of what to look out for.

Tiny lures

Use with a light set up. 1000-2000 sized reel, 15-20lb line and a rod with casting weights 1-15g ideally. 15-20lb wire trace. Suitable for pike, perch, chub and trout. 

Lure IDs- (Left column from top) Rapala Shad rap 8cm, Mark Hughton crank 'n' shad, Savage Gear soft 4play 9cm, Silver Mepps Aglia size 3, (right column from top) Rapala jointed shad rap 6cm, Salmo, kopyto relax shad with 7g jig head, Mepps Aglia copper size 3.

Medium lures

Use with medium set up. 2000-3000 sized reel, 30-50lb line and rod casting weights of 10-40g. 30-50lb wire trace, possible titanium trace if matched to line. Suitable for pike but can pick up perch and chub too as a bonus. 

Lure IDs - (left column from top) Savage Gear real eel 20cm, Savage gear lip lure 13cm, Abu Jointed tormentor, Spro bronze eye frog,  (bottom) Ace hell tail, (right column from top) Savage Gear cannibal shad, Savage gear soft 4play 13cm with lipskull.

Large lures

Use with a heavy set up. Ideally a multiplier rod and reel combo is better in the opinion of most however a fixed spool set up is still usable. Minimum 50lb line but ideally 80lb to stand a chance of getting lures back. 80-100lb titanium wire trace. 

Lure IDs - (left column from top) Savage Gear real eel 30cm. Savage gear lip lure 19cm, Jointed depth raider, (right column from top) Salmo slider, Musky Mania Squirrely burt, Matt Holmes Jerk bait, Savage Gear soft 4play 19cm.

Below is a video I made with more about using big lures for pike. It's pretty long but worth a watch if you are new to lure fishing for pike and want to target them seriously.

Link to video

There's absolutely loads to have a look at there and absolutely all of it are a must (except lure choices that's up to you and part of the fun). Whether you are a serious or casual lure angler you still have to think about your safety and that of the fish. There are far too many people who are going after pike with just 6lb mono and a spinner tied straight to it. This simply is not good enough. If this is you and you simply did not realise, we all make mistakes but learning from them is key. If you have read all this and still wish to carry on with a poor set up, incorrect tools and the rest then you really should reconsider what you do with your spare time. Our fish are precious and we all need to do our bit to look after them the best way we can.

Care about your fishing?
And on that note, if you seriously do wish to look after the future of our fishing then why not consider joining the Angling Trust who are our voice and our action group in fishing. They are the people who are working to protect our fish and our fishing.


If you are passionate about pike, then go have a look at, and join up to the Pike Anglers Club of Great Britain. Helping to promote pike welfare and the voice of pike anglers, they also have a vast wealth of pike fishing knowledge among their ranks and for anyone who wants to get in to pike fishing they are a must.

Thanks for reading and thanks for taking any of the advice if you didn't already know about it. Feel free to ask questions and I'll do my best to answer them or point you at someone who can If I don't know the answer.If you're an experienced piker and see a mistake or want to add something then point it out to me, I will be more than happy of the help.

Savage Gear Real Eel review

Savage Gear real eel

The long awaited arrival of the Savage Gear Real Eel is here. We've been peppered with photos of large pike with a large eels dangling out of the mouth for some time. It's all propaganda of course, but you can't blame SG for that one bit. We've all been watching and waiting and counting down the days to the launch here in the UK and those of us tracking it will have seen that Glasgow Angling Centre were the first to get them in stock. I think there's a bit of a collaboration with Savage Gear going on at the minute, and you can't fault SG or GAC for that bit of business either. I might not be daft, and I might not be bought so easily with pictures of large pike all over the shop, but one thing for sure, that realistic looking eel really caught my eye and I wanted it. Damn you Savage Gear!

Savage Gear real eel

Available in three sizes and five colours, 20cm, 30cm and 40cm. The two smaller versions come in packs of two while the largest 40cm version is sold as a single unit. The double packs come with one weighted jig head and one stinger treble hook, (more on those in a minute). The 20cm version weighs in at 27g, the 30cm at 56g and the 40cm is 147g. The colour options are black green pearl, olive pearl, purple pearl, firetiger and golden ambulance. The last two colours are familiar colours to many other SG lures.


The lures themselves are designed on real eels, with reel 3d scanning and modelling......wait a minute...... I'm starting to ramble on a bit there. In simple terms, the Real Eels are made to look a lot like real eels. They are made to swim like real eels. They're designed to wave that long eel tail around at slow speed and also while on the drop. I can confirm they both look and swim like real eels. Savage Gear have done a good job with how these things look and swim. Forget the technology behind them, they are spot on.


Back to the hook up and rigging. Supplied with a jig head and a stinger treble to give the angler options. You can simply hook the jig head alone to help when fishing the lure on the bottom or around snags, pulling the hook through the head of the eel and out a few inch down the body. You can also attach the stinger to help with better hook up rates when fishing less snaggy areas. I can't prove this with stats as I've not fished with it enough to know what works best. For now, i've had it set up with stinger and hooked fish both with the treble and the jig head. When setting up the stinger hook the jig head as before. Under the body of the eel you will see a small hole. This is where you can hook one point of the stinger treble. This will keep the treble close to the body of the lure while retrieving but will also allow the hook to pull free when a fish gets hooked. This will in turn allow the eel itself to flap freely helping to create minimum damage to the lure. The photos below will help show how to attach the stinger as I've noted some people are not too sure how. Basically, the stinger has a loop which you simply put over the eye of the jig head.

Savage Gear real eel hooks

Savage Gear real eel hanging free after stinger detaches from body

There is also another option for the more craft minded angler. You can make your own rig to suit the lure using stiff wire. The photos below are from a fellow piker, Phil Blakey. He's a very experienced angler and is always fiddling with rigs, lures and their set up to suit his needs best. His photos show his own rigs he's made to fish the eels either shallow or still using a jig head for a bit more depth. Twisting the wire to fit the lure in a similar style to that of the soft 4play ready to fish rigs. The first picture shows his jig head mod and the second the shallow/top water mod. In the second photo you can see that the wire is out of the body to illustrate how the rig comes free when a pike is hooked, to help protect the lure. The third photo is a further brain storming idea from Phil. After constant fish on the eel, and the back wire pulling free (as in photo 2) the rubber becomes a little torn. So to hold the wire in place, Phil places a tiny bit of branch (similar to when rigging a bait on a hair rig) to hold the wire in place. This will still easily come free when a fish is hooked.

jig head modification

shallow/top water mod

hair rigged

For chucking about, i've only so far used the 20cm version. I've had it rigged with the jighead and stinger supplied and I've clipped it on to one of Chicos titanium traces and heavy 80lb braid. You don't need this, but I use this because the bit of river I fish is very snaggy and you'd probably be better using a lighter set up with the 20cm version. For the retrieve, a simple steady retrieve works perfectly. A faster retrieve will keep the eel up near the top of the water while a pause will let it sink and then a slow retrieve will keep the eel a bit lower. For bouncing the eel across the bottom of the river I'd suggest removing the stinger to save hooking a sunken tree or car. You can also make the lure rise and sink by pausing and then winding again or jerking the rod while slow retrieving. All methods work as I've caught each way already. Just use the retrieve to suit your bit of water. Maybe start off with the lure just under the surface and then work the depths and if there's a pike about it'll be yours in no time.


The real eel is a great lure and the instant success in SG trials and in my own 45 minute session have proved this. It's another lure that does what it should do. It comes in a good selection of sizes and colours and there are plenty of options available to the angler when setting up to help fish the many different locations. It's a lure that should be in any pike anglers armoury in my opinion, we might even have a rival/replacement for the SG rainbow lip lure! Keep checking back over the next few days As I'll add my thoughts on the 30cm versions when they pop through the post.

EDIT- Lures arrived today at work as planned. Finished work at 8pm and in half an hour I managed to hook and lose a pike on the firetiger 30cm, then switched to the olive pearl and landed two pike to around 7lb. That's a successful lure if ever i've seen one. The 30cm versions look exactly like the 20s but bigger. What else did you expect? They move in the water just like the 20s. Often with a larger version of a lure it works in a different way but the eels maintain the same movement and sink rate, they're just a bigger lure. Even with a heavier jig head they do not sink any faster and have a nice nose dive which also keeps that tail wiggling. The jig hook and stinger both are scaled up and look the right size. Two of the fish were hooked on the stinger, one on the jig hook. The firetiger colours stand out a mile in the water and you can easily see your lure at a distance. If I can give you one more tip to help you enjoy these lures, fish them high up in the water. You can bring them in just under the surface with the right speed retrieve or by holding your rod high. When the pike hit them, hold on!

Savage Gear Real Eel

This pike won me the monthly Savage Gear photo competition in the Pike and Predators magazine and £250 worth of Savage gear lures. These eels have already paid for them self!

ANOTHER EDIT -  This beast fell to the 30cm Firetiger.

Savage Gear Real Eel

AND ANOTHER EDIT - So now i've been using the eels for quite some time. I don't always use them as my first choice lure, more that I try to use them to suit the swim I'm fishing. For example working them slowly through a shallow swim or even slower getting them down to the bottom of a deeper swim. Sometimes I'll remove the stinger treble to help prevent getting snagged as much on the bottom. I do prefer to keep the stinger in place as I feel more confident about hook ups, but i've not lost a fish just because I have removed it. I still find a mixture of hook ups both on the jig head and the stinger. I also have a couple of different weighted jig heads, with the heavier ones easier for getting the eel down deep but this means you have to have a slightly faster retrieve to keep it off the snaggy bottom.

I hear people complaining that their eels don't swim straight and kind of flip around. I've seen this myself but for me the simple solution is to either slow down the retrieve or re-align the jig head and stinger as if either one of these isn't straight this effects the balance of the eel and makes it turn over. That said, this doesn't bother me too much unless it is excessive because this doesn't bother the pike either.

Another complaint I've heard is of how battered and ripped apart the lures can become. I do remind people that these are soft lures and that pike have sharp teeth so this is to be expected. Some of my hard lures have no paint left on them! If your real eels get damaged you can either glue them back together or heat up a knife and then melt them back together. Here's a few photos to show you the damage which will be expected on your lures. These eels are pretty lightly damaged compared to some i've had but i've since lost those eels to snags, Grrr!

A tooth damaged tail can be ripped off  if you don't notice it and then pull on it!

The jig head eventually rips the top of the eel, but a simple fix using a hot knife sticks it back together.

jig head damage around the front of the eel head. Not too much of a problem, just use super glue to keep it all together

The stinger hole eventually rips open, but not a problem since you want the hook to come free on a fish anyway.

And still catching fish in -6C - Savage Gear real eel

Perch love Savage Gear real eels

This one fell to the 40cm black pearl Savage Gear Real Eel

Turn off the soaps

Since my last blog i've been sulking. I managed to hook and lose a twenty pounder. What more can I say on it? I'm nearly over it now, but it was a bit gutting having played the fish for a while and then the hook just coming free. Just one of those things and all part of fishing. I wasn't chasing a monster, but when you have one and lose it it hurts.

The fishing Gods then dealt me a further blow. The river had not long been open and had just settled down to a good level with the fish responding and me having plenty of action. Until that is the heavens opened again and it lashed it down all over the country, causing my river to reach it's highest level for five years and bursting it's banks in plenty of places. The river came up lightening fast with a tremendous amount of water it really was a sight. Not so good for the homes flooded or for the farmers who's crops were now underwater.

Picture doesn't show the true extent of the floods

I turned to my back up canal where I proceeded to pass on some time having fun catching two or three pike per couple hour session. I've not had anything substantial yet and I'm still working out what makes it tick. Sometimes you can get a couple of fish lightening fast in a peg other times nothing, everywhere is dead. It's my chill out spot though, away from everyone, away from all the noise of life.

Awesome sunset (no photo enhancing this was real)

The river became fish able again a few days ago and I've managed to get in an hour or two either before or after work. I seem to have found out where the pike are coming to feed and when they are there I can pick up five or six pike in an hour from one spot, with everywhere else not producing anything. I think I've worked it out and the pike are feeding just off the main flow. I'm not sure if they're feeding on the smaller fish who are feeding off the millions of tiny fry in the edge, or if they are just waiting off the main current for fish in the fast water coming out. Whatever, this is the bit of river that needs to be fished. I've not managed to pull out anything of note, but had some great fun. The fish are hitting the lures hard and fighting even harder. I had a fish of just over five pound tonight which just wouldn't come in. One fish thrashed out of the water shaking it's head and wouldn't stop, defying gravity for an age. I've had a fish chase the lure right in to the shallows and practically beach itself, I had to look closely to make sure it wasn't a killer whale chasing seal pups. I've also had a good helping of lost fish, missed takes and fish following and giving my nerves a nudge. I've notched up around twenty pike from one spot in less than eight hours fishing. I haven't really taken many photos though so not much to show off. Most fish have been around the seven to nine pound mark, largest fish was twelve pound but it was absolutely chucking it down when that one came in so I just popped it straight back before we both got caked in mud. Similarly many fish have been put back sharpish, often unhooked in the water because when it hasn't been raining it's been quite hot at times.

I love a good action shot. Not always easy to get when you're on your own and sometimes they turn out rubbish when you get home and have a look. I'm happy with this one though so thought I'd share. For the curious, that's a chunky titanium trace made by Chicoslures who you can't beat for quality and service and of course that's the ever reliable Savage Gear rainbow lip lure.

Another reason I haven't taken too many photos or messed about with the fish is that many of them are suffering a few bumps and bruises. Many have decent gashes on them. One nine pound pike looked like it had been held by a much larger pike and others seem to have teeth marks while other times I look at the gashes and wonder if they are from spawning or even other predators such as otters. Anyone who can add anything similar or definite answer give me a nudge. The photo below gives you an idea but some of them have been far worse than this example.

11.5lb showing damage

Apart from the fishing, which has been fabulous when I've been able to get out the wildlife hasn't been bad either so whenever I was quick enough I snapped at anything that moved. Three times these swans nearly took my head off trying to take off before I finally managed to get the camera out just in time to get a shot of them going over my head. I felt like I was stood by the fence watching the planes take off at the airport. I managed to miss a barn owl come within twenty feet of me, twice. It came in low and silent and it was gone before I could picture it. That really would have made a fantastic photo had I caught it.

This giant was much easier to capture. I've no idea what particular type of arachnid it is, but it's pretty stunning close up.

Dragons flies are always great to photo if you can find one willing to chill out for a minute or two. This beast was about six inches long and I'm sure it actually had to have had an engine to power those wings.

Most of my fishing has been while the majority of the country are sat watching Emmerdale, Eastenders and Coronation Street. Those people don't know what they are missing.

2012 pike tally

 Doubles 17

Total 93

Largest 22.5lb
Bonus Perch 2